Sometime things don’t turn out the way you planned, but fortunately in Costa Rica that often means that they turn out better. We particularly anticipated the last couple of days of one trip to Costa Rica because they coincided with the waning moon and an Arribada (mass nesting) of sea turtles. We traveled by bus to Nosara just outside Ostional National Wildlife Refuge.
Our dusk walk to the nesting sites on the beach was called off after we stumbled across a local woman lying unconscious on the trail. After obtaining medical attention and locating her family there wasn’t much enthusiasm left for a midnight turtle walk. The woman was okay and that’s a whole other story.
The next morning we walked to the beach knowing that we had to catch an afternoon bus back to the central valley and our flight home.
The Arribada was over, but there would be several hundred stragglers each night for the next few nights and we wished we could stay. It was impossible to be disappointed for long under the clear skies next to the crashing surf, and our cheered dispositions were soon rewarded.
Sue spotted a small black dot moving slowly towards the water ahead of us, and as we moved closer we realized it wasn’t one of the ubiquitous mangrove crabs, but a baby turtle.
Looking up the beach we saw dozens of tiny dots headed for the waves. For the next 15 minutes we joyously and unabashedly interfered with nature by running from the trees to the water frightening away vultures and other predators ushering all of the turtles safely into the sea.
Turtles normally hatch late on moonless nights to maximize their chance to sneak past the coyotes, vultures, and others that consider them a tasty snack. They calculate the appropriate time to emerge based on temperature variations.
After all the babies were in the relative safety of the surf we poked around the nest feeling the leathery shells and marveling that there didn’t appear to be any unhatched.
A little investigative work revealed why these turtles had come out under glare of the sun.
Their mother, like all sea turtles could smell salt and used that sense to seek out a portion of the beach with a lower concentration above all but the most extreme high tides.
She had chosen a nest site just short of the trees, which is normal, but also where a small trickle of a freshwater stream disappeared into the sand. The fresh water had cooled the nest, confusing her babies’ internal thermometers, and provided us with a once in a lifetime experience.